



There is one thing that is often overlooked during the search. That is: “Where are we going to put it?” For far too many
people, releasing the newcomer into the pond is about all the preparation thought to be necessary. There are the
customary excuses:
“My dealer has very healthy fish”.
“We only buy fish from one place”.
“We’ve never had a problem introducing new fish to our pond.”
“If we lose one or two now and then it’s not a big deal”.
And my favorite-and one which is usually unsaid but often
quietly favored:
“Everyone else does it”.
Having dealt with tropical and ornamental fish for most of my
life I can assure you that the quickest way to a devastating
experience in this hobby is to add new fish without proper
quarantine. No, it doesn’t happen every time. But it does
happen. More frequently than we know. People just don’t
want to admit that they just lost their prized pet koi. So it goes
away quietly and no one is the wiser.
I have been called many times to visit a pond where the fish are sick and dying. One of the first questions I ask is: “About
how long ago did you put a new fish in you pond?” In many cases the answer is: “About two (or) three weeks“. Just about
the right amount of time for a parasite outbreak and bacterial infection to begin. So if you want to have a positive and
successful experience when you have found that new “treasure” please prepare before you buy……not after.
A quarantine tank can be many things. I’ve seen 55gal, 75gal, 120gal, 240gal, 300gal, 800gal, and 1250gal tanks used as
quarantine tanks. Whether they are aquariums, stock tanks or professionally built indoor tanks with polycarbonate
windows and under water cameras they all have some things in common. They are equipped with powerful filtration, are
aerated with large air pumps, have secure covers and are well lit. The nets, food, hoses, medications, test kits are all
separate from the owner’s collection. In other words this is a QUARANTINE tank. It is not just a place to house a few fish
for a couple weeks. A quarantine tank is for holding, observing, treating and: testing.
Holding should be a minimum of four weeks but eight weeks is far better. If at all possible one or two fish from the existing
collection should be added to this tank. During this time the water quality must be monitored for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates,
total alkalinity, Ph and temperature. Water changes should be accomplished frequently and consistently to insure that the
water quality is maintained.
Ammonia level should be zero or close to it at all times.
Nitrite level should be zero or close to it at all times.
Nitrate level should be less than 50ppm.
Ph level is important as it should be a consistent reading somewhere between 7.0 and 8.5.
Total alkalinity(carbonate hardness)level: simple: The tank needs some. At minimum 50ppm. Higher levels are perfectly
fine but lower levels can allow for a Ph crash.
Temperature needs to be held between 65 and 75 degreesF. Consistency is key.
Observing the new fish is very important. New fish may be a bit spooked at first but with the help of a couple fish from the
existing collection should soon be feeding and swimming about with them. They should not be laying on the bottom. They
should not rub or “flash” against the tank sides. They should be coming to the surface for food more eagerly as time
passes. Anything which indicates to you that this fish is not feeling good is cause for action.
Treating new fish is discussed at length and at times heatedly on internet forums around the world. However it is generally
agreed that there are a few water column medications which are important to have on hand before the new fish arrives. If
you plan on buying a microscope or already own one that is terrific and you’re already ahead of the pack. However if you
study the minimum medications needed for parasite treatments it is perfectly fine to treat them using a shotgun approach.
The point being to treat the new fish as if they have parasites to begin with. An approach that is actually more accurate
than the hobbyist might think.
Either way there are a few medications which are important to have:
*A formaldehyde and malachite green solution such as Quickcure or ProformC
*Praziquantel
*Plain softener salt
*Diflubenzuron-trade name: Dimilin
Yes, there are more, but this will give you a good start.
You’ll also need:
*A gram scale
*Measuring devices and cups
*Well-capped jars for mixing
*Iodine
*Cotton swabs
*Small tools such as a tweezer or X-acto knife
There are more items but this is a great start.
Once you have acquired some quarantine skills and can bring your new acqusitions through the holding, observing and
treating steps you’ll find satisfaction knowing you’ve done your best to insure your fish’s health.
Steps to a Successful Quarantine Experience
One of the most interesting and exciting times for the koi hobbyist is finding and buying a new fish or two for the pond
There are so many varieties, sizes and quality levels that it can take months to decide just what it is that “trips your
trigger”. Many times it just comes down to a simple: “I like this one“.
Quarantine Tank built by Koi Valley
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Quarantine Tank built by Koi Valley
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Finally: Testing.
For those of you who have read about the devastating effect
of Koi Herpesvirus (KHV) there is something you can do if
you wish.
Once your koi have gone through several weeks in warmer
waters a blood sample can be drawn and sent to the
Infectious Diseases Laboratory at the University of Georgia.
The blood sample will be subjected to KHV and evaluated for
antibodies. This test is known as the Virus Neutralization
test. Although no test is perfect I’d place this in the 99%
accurate range. About as good as can be done at present.
Above all else, I hope I’ve convinced you to take quarantine seriously and prepare yourself before you buy that new
“bauble” that looks you in the eye and says “take me home?”
Karl Schoeler
Quarantine Tank built by Koi Valley
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